|
Post by davidbennett on Apr 3, 2017 16:33:08 GMT -1
I don't know 100% but it looks like a Avon prob made in the 80's - its about 3600mm I put in a 7psi floor and used a grey polymarine flexible paint all over so its spruced up a bit
|
|
|
Post by philpot on Apr 3, 2017 21:42:19 GMT -1
Is the floor from another boat as you said that you put in the air floor and I don't think air floors were around in the eighties David.
|
|
|
Post by davidbennett on Apr 4, 2017 12:36:43 GMT -1
yeah that's correct
|
|
|
Post by philpot on Apr 5, 2017 7:23:09 GMT -1
Ah.....................that may change a few things David. An air floor is a tight fit designed for a particular hull and it may be that if this boat had a wooden floor originally, you may have to put up with some of the issues that you have already experienced because we are dealing with an unknown factor.
What is holding you floor down in place at the transom. On an air floor, normally there are one or more strips of wood at the bottom of the transom about an inch from the boat's floor skin. These wood strips trap the rear edge of the air floor and hold it tightly in place to offer reasonable rigidity at the transom, if they are not there, that will also allow the floor to flex at the back. The sides of the air floor must be trapped between the tubes and the floor skin again to offer as much rigidity as possible.
Can you check what the situation is with all the above items David
Phil
|
|
|
Post by davidbennett on Apr 24, 2017 8:13:29 GMT -1
All sorted ! the Hydro fins from MES have sorted the problem ! Happys days! Thanks for all your help!
|
|
|
Post by philpot on Apr 24, 2017 14:05:16 GMT -1
I am so pleased for you David and just in time for early summer fun........................great result mate.
Phil
|
|
|
Post by nala on Aug 20, 2017 15:23:03 GMT -1
Just fitted a set of hydro fins to the Tohatsu.....next thing i need to do is line up the cavitation plate/hydro fins to the keel or at best the bottom vee of the transom.(just below the drain plug)
So,that will entail as Philpot has mentioned raising the engine by packing with wooden shims.
Which will allow the engine/bracket to sit on a bit higher so the correct or best performance can be achieved.
And eliminate the water that splashes back over the transon and into the boat,and run more efficient.
Carefully consideration as not to have the water pickup too high as this could starve the engine of the cooling water.
Thus ruining your engine......
Obviously if it's a race boat and speed is the name of the game.
Then the existing pickups on the gearbox/leg have to be blocked off and an alternative lower mounted pickup will have to be engineered.
So,as I'm looking at it I will not be raising the cavitation plate/hydro fins higher than in-line with the keel and or transom vee.
Photos are too big to put on,when I've sorted them out I'll put a youtube link up......hopefully.
|
|
|
Post by philpot on Aug 22, 2017 6:37:26 GMT -1
Don't go too high to start with Alan, just keep adding a shim but really run the boat for the shim test to ensure you select the right one. It may be as with David that you will not need one when the fins are fitted.
Phil
|
|
|
Post by nala on Aug 23, 2017 17:05:10 GMT -1
Hello Phil I've made two shims from a nylon military catering cutting board..... I have cut them 25cm long and they are naturally 15mm thick......so there's 30mm total height. Going to screw these to the top of the transom when everything is ok and dandy Will drill two securing holes and fix stainless bolts with wing nuts to hold fast the engine to the transom as the clamps will be to close to the top of it.....on success of the final test run. Basically test the shims one at a time , one 15mm first and then add the other 15mm if I need to ? Yesterday I felt so enthusiastic and energetic ........ today I feel like a wet flannel:O !
|
|
|
Post by nala on Sept 10, 2017 14:13:40 GMT -1
|
|