Malibu Mini-X Rigout Part III - Anchor trolley
Sept 21, 2007 9:21:42 GMT -1
Post by gerryw on Sept 21, 2007 9:21:42 GMT -1
You might think there is nothing new here as most kayak forum have some article or another about such a mod....and that's what I thought until I set about adding one to my Mini-X.
Basically there are a number of decisions to make when installing this mod onto a relatively short yak. The curvature of the sides makes it virtually impossible for the trolley to follow them neatly unless there is something there to guide it. Your anchor trolley should also be under some tension from bow to stern and when applied to a full length trolley this causes it to follow the centre line of the boat, again unless held aside. However, fitting a running line fore and aft and at the same time allowing it to be held in place down the side seems to be contradictory and is the very problem most safety line suppliers have when fitting such things to yachts - fasten the crew on safely but allow them to move unimpaired.
One thing you cannot easily do is use trial and error - without filling your yak with a number of holes! So a lot of thought was required to come up with the solution here.
I had decided not to go with a 'kit of parts' approach, excellent as they are. That allowed me important selection of each item as well as less important issues such as line colour etc. I had decided to install a full length trolley rather than just mid-stern or mid-bow. This allows you to carefully turn through 180 degrees without weighing anchor just by winching the trolley to the other end. (Be careful that sea conditions allow this maneuver though or you might get a little closer to the fish!)
The trolley is built of 6 elements:
1. The line - I chose 5mm being sufficiently thick to pull with wet hands any yet not too thick to make it immovable under deck hoops etc. I also chose yellow to match the yak but more importantly distinguish it from other decklines, the anchor line and deck bungees. That way I knew what I could grab if need be from in the drink.
2. Two small Seasure rollers matched to a 5mm line diameter without screw fittings as they were to be attached to the deck with bungee cords.
3. Two cleats - port and starboard - again matched to 5mm rope that would be used on the same side of the deck in order to jamb the line in either direction fore or aft. (More later)
4. Hook and ring - stainless carabiner or sprung hook, reasonable small but big enough to open to remove the anchor line easily. The ring is merely a hook to the other end of the line so there is no need to 'go large' on that part.
5. Deck guides - basically the plastic deck hoops found on most sit-on-tops. These would be used to guide one side of the trolley line along the side of the yak as well as secure the bungee ends to the deck with s/s bolts.
6. Two hooks - plastic, made by the same people who make the deck hoops and available as part of a bungee kit on Ebay for a fiver (incl bungee, screws, hoops etc)
The first pic shows the completed trolley in situ so that you can get an idea of what we're aiming for. It runs stem to stern and is held at each end with bungees which give it the required tension and allow it to move easily via the rollers. One side passes beneath the deck hoops and creates an attractive line. This line determines the position of the cleats and hooks so that the other side of the trolley runs parallel to the first. The cleats are set at reachable positions so that the front one is used to hold the trolley when anchored off the bow and the rear when anchored of the stern. No need to use both simultaneously as the roller prevents further movement in each case.
The mini-X provides some specific issues as I have described, one of which is access to the stern when using nuts and bolts. It is my intention to add a rear deck hatch but as yet without it access is impossible. I was determined to have the bungees attached separately to the fore and aft handles and so the best position to add a deck hoop at the stern was next to the drain plug opening. That allowed for the gynecology trick of balancing the nut on the little finger, through the hole, while fastening the bolt from above. An angled ring spanner then put through the hole allowed the bolt to be tightened from the top.
With both deck hoops in position fit the bungees and attach the Seasure rollers. Then pass the trolley line though both and slightly tighten. This will bring the trolley line down the centre of the craft. Pull one side of the line to the side you choose for the trolley and select two positions for your deck cleats below the line of the central handle. (make sure the line runs below the centre handle as the one you will use to anchor runs above it and is therefore more accessible) I found the best two positions to be at the rear just beneath the rod holder and forward of the seating position where the side flattens out before turning to the bow. Add two deck hoops here passing the line beneath. (S/S self tappers are adequate)
Next position the two hooks near to the hoops you have just placed but above them so that the line, when hooked underneath runs parallel to the previous line which is now fixed.
These are only to keep the line away from you when paddling. When anchoring the line will be removed from the front one if you are anchoring at the bow and vice versa.
Next add the cleats. These need to be added between the two lines and above the bottom one as this is the line you will secure in the cleat and it needs the extra tension to hold there.
Finally add the snaplink and ring ensuring there is adequate tension in the trolley line when doing so.
When not in operation the line is neatly stowed as shown. When you wish to anchor simply unclip the line fore or aft depending from which end you are anchoring and snap the anchor line through the carabiner or snaplink. Using the trolley position the anchor to the end of the yak chosen and allow the anchor to drop into the waves. (Do not drop anchor centrally as wind/tide may cause you to flip before you've had chance to move it for or aft)
Once in position secure the anchor line to the boat. I have used a sprung cam cleat inside the yak.
This is less likely to get in the way when I have to climb back on board after a 'dip' and I prefer it to a hook etc, although it was the most expensive part of the fitment.
Also shown are my girl's 'fishnets' added fore and aft - these are deck bungees for the uninitiated - which are non-standard on the naked Mini-X.
Tight lines
Gerry
Basically there are a number of decisions to make when installing this mod onto a relatively short yak. The curvature of the sides makes it virtually impossible for the trolley to follow them neatly unless there is something there to guide it. Your anchor trolley should also be under some tension from bow to stern and when applied to a full length trolley this causes it to follow the centre line of the boat, again unless held aside. However, fitting a running line fore and aft and at the same time allowing it to be held in place down the side seems to be contradictory and is the very problem most safety line suppliers have when fitting such things to yachts - fasten the crew on safely but allow them to move unimpaired.
One thing you cannot easily do is use trial and error - without filling your yak with a number of holes! So a lot of thought was required to come up with the solution here.
I had decided not to go with a 'kit of parts' approach, excellent as they are. That allowed me important selection of each item as well as less important issues such as line colour etc. I had decided to install a full length trolley rather than just mid-stern or mid-bow. This allows you to carefully turn through 180 degrees without weighing anchor just by winching the trolley to the other end. (Be careful that sea conditions allow this maneuver though or you might get a little closer to the fish!)
The trolley is built of 6 elements:
1. The line - I chose 5mm being sufficiently thick to pull with wet hands any yet not too thick to make it immovable under deck hoops etc. I also chose yellow to match the yak but more importantly distinguish it from other decklines, the anchor line and deck bungees. That way I knew what I could grab if need be from in the drink.
2. Two small Seasure rollers matched to a 5mm line diameter without screw fittings as they were to be attached to the deck with bungee cords.
3. Two cleats - port and starboard - again matched to 5mm rope that would be used on the same side of the deck in order to jamb the line in either direction fore or aft. (More later)
4. Hook and ring - stainless carabiner or sprung hook, reasonable small but big enough to open to remove the anchor line easily. The ring is merely a hook to the other end of the line so there is no need to 'go large' on that part.
5. Deck guides - basically the plastic deck hoops found on most sit-on-tops. These would be used to guide one side of the trolley line along the side of the yak as well as secure the bungee ends to the deck with s/s bolts.
6. Two hooks - plastic, made by the same people who make the deck hoops and available as part of a bungee kit on Ebay for a fiver (incl bungee, screws, hoops etc)
The first pic shows the completed trolley in situ so that you can get an idea of what we're aiming for. It runs stem to stern and is held at each end with bungees which give it the required tension and allow it to move easily via the rollers. One side passes beneath the deck hoops and creates an attractive line. This line determines the position of the cleats and hooks so that the other side of the trolley runs parallel to the first. The cleats are set at reachable positions so that the front one is used to hold the trolley when anchored off the bow and the rear when anchored of the stern. No need to use both simultaneously as the roller prevents further movement in each case.
The mini-X provides some specific issues as I have described, one of which is access to the stern when using nuts and bolts. It is my intention to add a rear deck hatch but as yet without it access is impossible. I was determined to have the bungees attached separately to the fore and aft handles and so the best position to add a deck hoop at the stern was next to the drain plug opening. That allowed for the gynecology trick of balancing the nut on the little finger, through the hole, while fastening the bolt from above. An angled ring spanner then put through the hole allowed the bolt to be tightened from the top.
With both deck hoops in position fit the bungees and attach the Seasure rollers. Then pass the trolley line though both and slightly tighten. This will bring the trolley line down the centre of the craft. Pull one side of the line to the side you choose for the trolley and select two positions for your deck cleats below the line of the central handle. (make sure the line runs below the centre handle as the one you will use to anchor runs above it and is therefore more accessible) I found the best two positions to be at the rear just beneath the rod holder and forward of the seating position where the side flattens out before turning to the bow. Add two deck hoops here passing the line beneath. (S/S self tappers are adequate)
Next position the two hooks near to the hoops you have just placed but above them so that the line, when hooked underneath runs parallel to the previous line which is now fixed.
These are only to keep the line away from you when paddling. When anchoring the line will be removed from the front one if you are anchoring at the bow and vice versa.
Next add the cleats. These need to be added between the two lines and above the bottom one as this is the line you will secure in the cleat and it needs the extra tension to hold there.
Finally add the snaplink and ring ensuring there is adequate tension in the trolley line when doing so.
When not in operation the line is neatly stowed as shown. When you wish to anchor simply unclip the line fore or aft depending from which end you are anchoring and snap the anchor line through the carabiner or snaplink. Using the trolley position the anchor to the end of the yak chosen and allow the anchor to drop into the waves. (Do not drop anchor centrally as wind/tide may cause you to flip before you've had chance to move it for or aft)
Once in position secure the anchor line to the boat. I have used a sprung cam cleat inside the yak.
This is less likely to get in the way when I have to climb back on board after a 'dip' and I prefer it to a hook etc, although it was the most expensive part of the fitment.
Also shown are my girl's 'fishnets' added fore and aft - these are deck bungees for the uninitiated - which are non-standard on the naked Mini-X.
Tight lines
Gerry